Chiang Mai, Thailand's Temple of the Dogs

Chiang Mai, Thailand's Temple of the Dogs

by Nola Lee Kelsey

Into the Arms of Buddha

It was 5 p.m. and I was stalking an angel on temple grounds. As the rain started, I wondered if she would show herself at all. Chiang Mai's rain patterns are directly correlated with the contents of my purse. The resulting meteorological phenomena means the rain could stop in a matter of seconds or pour down for days, depending on whether or not I'd brought my umbrella. I had not.

Squinting into the droplets, I glared up at the massive Chedi, a Lanna-style stupa which draws in visitors from across Northern Thailand. Sure it's impressive, but what I want to know is: How can you have such a large building sitting there for 700 years and not install any doors? Surely it has rained here before.

Where to hide? No way would I take shelter in the two beautiful little buildings in front of me. Stunningly designed, absolutely! But each houses a wax replica of an elderly monk sitting in a clear box. File them under "way too real looking" to pass time with. What can I say? Lack of blinking disturbs me. Beside, if wax can achieve the lotus position, why can't I?

To escape the deluge, my shelter took the form of a gazebo housing three large Buddhas. I would not be alone. One by one, temple residents trickled in. The first went straight to a mat he obviously kept laid out for these moments. Two more just sat down and licked themselves. By the time the skies opened up completely, three more temple dogs had meandered into the shelter.

Carrying dog cookies is just something I do. I could explain myself, but people either get it or never will. I tossed five treats out and turned to the sixth dog, Lek (Thai for little). She had vanished. Not possible. Would she go back out in the rain? Is there a dog door in the side of the Chedi?

I surrendered Lek's cookie to an antique looking Weimaraner. Predictably, that's when I spotted her. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed her sitting in the right hand of a Buddha. She yawned, nestled perfectly into Buddha's arms and fell fast asleep. After six years of visiting Wat Chedi Luang, the temple still brings a grin to my face. Must be why I keep coming back.

Angels of Chedi Luang

Actually, as the donation box says, "It all started about ten years ago." Ajarn Rosocon, a teacher at Chiang Mai's Rajabaht University, decided to make the dogs of Wat Chedi Luang and the adjoining Wat Phan Tau her mission. Ajarn is Thai for teacher. Her best lessons were taught at this temple complex. Out of a potential hell these unique Buddhist sites have been transformed into a sort of canine Nirvana.

Initially, students and friends helped Ajarn Rosocon care for the dogs. They fed, sterilized, treated mange, vaccinated... whatever they could manage from the pennies (baht) they scraped together. The group was determined that the dogs of Chedi Luang and Phan Tau not suffer the life faced by so many abandoned and sick temple dogs across SE Asia.

In 2005 Ajarn Rosocon unexpectedly died. A friend, Ann Pierce, and another devoted friend/student Khun Soonthree stepped in. Adopting Rosocon's dream as their own, they went forward, honoring a friend's memory by helping the helpless. Ultimately, Khun Soonthree became in many eyes the "Angel of Chedi Luang."

Touring the Temples

Wat Chedi Luang has become a refuge not just for dogs, but for all animal lovers. If travelers become overwhelmed by the sight and plight of street dogs or simply need a quiet escape they visit this 'feel good' temple. Try it yourself. Play tourist, take photos, pat a willing pup, or bring a picnic - it's all good. Then at 6 p.m. watch for the angel. Over a year after Ajarn Rosocon death, Khun Soonthree still feeds and cares for the temple dogs.

Word has it she never misses a day. She was there in the rainy season when her own home flooded several times. She was there in the storm when Lek and I sought shelter. Her bright yellow rain slicker and massive pot of rice mix carried her through the tempest. If it is 6 o'clock in Chiang Mai, she's there right now.

Most people visit Wat Chedi Luang's temple complex for the impressive ancient Chedi. In addition, its beautiful grounds are perfect for strolling, quietly removed from the city's frenzy. Vendors offer food and cool drink. Trees and benches offer hospitable shade. The adjoining Wat Phan Tau casts a luminous teak glow over the Buddha images it houses.

Better still, the aptly named "Monk Chat" area offer travelers a welcoming invitation to pull up a chair and, quite obviously, chat with monks. A casual atmosphere where international visitors just hang out with Buddhist monks is a fabulous forum for asking questions and learning about one another's lives. In the background the voices of novice monks echo outward from classroom windows.

Who's Who?

Of course, for a few of us the temples house one more special treasure - the dogs. Not all are social. Not all are loyal. Some are downright ornery. But to know the "who's who" of Chedi Luang canines adds to the fun of any visit. True most tourists barely notice them - except to do a quick sidestep away. Like many regulars, however, I've given most nicknames.

Take Ren and Stumpy for example. Ren, a diminutive twig of a dog, is the duo's personality. Stumpy, who has a front leg contorted up underneath, provides a bit of size (a valuable asset in the world of temple dog politics) to the team. Side by side the pair can be found on a building patio overlooking the Chedi's north face.

Ren works her magic, charming the visitors with enthusiastic greetings. Then Stumpy shows his handicap, Abracadabra! Any traveler with half a heart makes a beeline for the ubiquitous '5 baht meat-on-a-stick' vendor. "No need to heat it sir."

Next, is Lady. She works with a local artist by delicately charming customers to his postcard rack. From there they get a close-up look at his lovely hand sketched works. I suspect Lady pulls in a commission.

Friendly Little Lek hovers at ordinary in the looks department. But every dog is beautiful when they sleep in Buddha's arms.

Not all is perfect. When I first saw Hiccup, I thought he had just been poisoned. Now I know the perpetual hack must be a medical problem. A bone lodged somewhere or... I can not say. While not overly social, Hiccup is stunningly photogenic.

At the front entrance of Chedi Luang are the three Golden Boys. At least I think they are boys. They rarely stand. This is the first place Khun Soonthree feeds each evening. Looking at the girth of the Golden Boys, it's a tad surprising there is any food left for any other temple dogs.

Across from them lives Lucy - the Teddy Bear dog. Had you seen her before her haircut, you would have expected to find seams and a price tag.

No one knows exactly how many dogs live at Chedi Luang, 60+ perhaps. Other notable characters include Cookie Monster, whose cantankerous attitude and dull looks are well compensated for by the fact that he is the only one who actually likes the dull old dry dog cookies I bring. Apparently others prefer Khun Soonthree's cooking to mine.

Living on the north face of the Chedi is Scar and her three puppies. Some dogs turn up at the temple pregnant. Still, her puppies Goldie, Blackie, and Coco Puff are well cared for.

The latest I have notice is named, "Oh Crap, Where Are My Ears?" Oh Crap..., or Ears for short, must be an abandoned pet. He is way too forlorn looking. It's as though he desperately wants a master. However, he's willing to settle for jerky treats - or bigger ears.

Chubby, a pseudo red Chow, and Pigeon Chaser top off the list of charmers over at Wat Phan Tau. Pigeon Chaser will pass any domestic chicken, but heaven help the wild birds if he ever sprouts wings. The young monks at Phan Tau are especially loving toward their smaller population of temple dogs. It is truly a joy to watch them interact. Saffron robes and happy tails flourish side by side.

The influence Chedi Luang has on animal lovers is best summed up by Ann Pierce. A former volunteer with the dogs, Ann has returned to California, but wrote this in an email interview:

"I cannot begin to articulate the impact the dogs, Ajarn Rosocon, Khun Soonthree, Wat Chedi Luang and all the other people I met through my time in Chiang Mai has had on me. I'm a very different person because of my experiences. My dream is to one day move back to Chiang Mai and continue helping the animals, no matter how frustrating it is at times."

Getting There

You can take a Tuk Tuk to visit Wat Chedi Luang. Most drivers know of this popular temple. On foot enter the old city from the famous Tha Phae Gate (east moat gate) and continue straight up Ratchadamnoen Road about four blocks to the first street light - Phra Pokklao Rd. Turn left. You'll immediately see the spectacular Teak Wood Temple of Wat Phan Tau on your right. Take a look inside. Wat Chedi Luang's larger complex is located next door.

Please remember Wats are Buddhist Temples first and foremost. Dress conservatively and behave respectfully. They don't have to let the visitors or the dogs stay. Honor yourself by the example you set.

How Can You Help?

Visit Chedi Luang, have a great time, then spread the word.

Feeding starts at the main entrance between 5:30 and 6:00 each night. Stop by and show Khun Soonthree your appreciation of her work.

Please make a donation in one of the temples three Dog Donation Boxes, set up around the Chedi. Your money goes to food, vaccinations, mange treatment, sterilization of females (and males when it can be afforded), and general care.

The main Wat is currently undergoing a massive restoration. Making a donation to support the construction work, the temple and the temple's school is good for all the residents - two and four legged (or 3.5 - sorry Stumpy).

Getting the Most from Your Visit!

Never approach any dog that seems reluctant. Get acquainted slowly with the friendly animals. Their continued socialization, or at least apathy to people, keeps them from wearing out their welcome at the temple.

Do not bring too many good tasting cookies: bacon, pork rings, a side of beef... The bigger dogs will follow and fights can ensue with defenseless smaller ones. Dry old dog cookies rate low on the taste scale. In other words, they are a perfect cheap way to give snacks to those that will eat them eventually. If in doubt, donate the money instead. It goes to the right place.

Helping Dogs in Chiang Mai

If you live in Thailand, consider helping change the world one temple at a time. Get advice form angels and/or adopt your own temple - with permission of the monks. Make it a family, business, class or club project. Work with a reputable vet. Dr. Nook in Chiang Mai is aces!

Other organizations that help pets in the Chiangmai area temples include Lanna Dog Rescue and Care for Dogs. Both have web sites and are always looking for volunteers or donations of funds, foods and materials.

In addition, Care for Dogs also has a wonderful shelter offering adoptions of healthy rescued dogs and puppies to good homes. Remember, for each new pet that finds a family, space is made for a suffering dog to be brought into their facility. What a beautiful way to help one - dog at a time.

Visiting Bhuripan in northern Thailand

Visiting Bhuripan in northern Thailand

by Panaphun

Chiang Mai reflects the prosperity of the past. It is therefore the center of enigmatic beauty of the north including ancient monuments, antiquities, important art and culture that have prevailed over more than ' seven centuries. Chang Mai today is a city of ecovtourism where tourists can appreciate the beauty of art and culture, 3% the uniquely northern temples and the pleasant scenic surrounding of nature.
Against to diverse attractions, tourists can spend time savoring the Lanna way of. life that exists hand in hand with the modern development at the Gallery, the Iong-establishqd Thai restaurant by the Ping River. Then, stop by Bhuripan Hotel to enjoy the canny air, especially the highlight of its contemporary design and the contrasting traditional art characterized by the lasting beauty of wood and the strong Lanna-styled building inspired by foreign influence that once deluged Lanna. The roof of the hotel, for example, - typifies the influence of the Tai-Lee, the locals of Thai race who, more than three centuries ago, migrated to Lanna from a Sibsawngpanna, a state in the land - dominated by mountain ranges and waterways. Thanks to its passion for a simple way of life, it is a vibrant place whose existence is linked to the Thai way of life in harmony with nature that makes it the most ideal holiday hideaway.

Furthermore, it is possible to pay homage to the temple at Doi Suthep, experience the lifestyle of the Hmong community at Doi Pui where the beauty of a rich assortment of orchids at the Orchid Nursery and be distracted by butterflies of different species. The scenic views in Chiang Mai meanwhile are always the winner to make the early-winter trip to a Chiang Mai truly unforgettable.

Sunshine's Tale: A Golden Retriever in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Sunshine's Tale: A Golden Retriever in Chiang Mai, Thailand

by Nola L. Kelsey

No day is ordinary when you work with animals. Routines contort around emergencies and nature's whims decide the schedules. The story is no different at Care for Dogs in Chiangmai, Thailand. Even the most casual project can change lives. Still when staff member Karin Hawelka sat down at her email one morning she had no idea what she'd find in her inbox.
Among the usual business letters, reports and million dollar stock tips, cleverly disguised as spam, a ray of sunshine was hidden. Karin received an email from a man who said he'd seen an underweight Golden Retriever on Doi Suthep. Martin, the alert animal lover who reported the dog, also noted the retriever appeared to have a leg injury. The computer could wait. Karin and Care for Dog's team member Ally Taylor set off at once.

Atop Doi Suthep Mountain lies Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The temple is a major pilgrimage destination for the Buddhist holidays of Makha Buja and Visak. Setting high above the bustling city of Chiang Mai this 600 year old sanctuary can be seen glowing in the sunshine across the region. The breathtaking views from the drive up the mountain would have been reason enough to escape the city. Still, Karin and Ally had a mission. Among the shining golden Buddhas, sidewalk shops and camera-heavy tourists, saffron draped monks strolled the temple grounds. Zigzagging among the monks was the Care for Dogs team. It didn't take long for the gals to find their hidden temple treasure.

As reported a beautiful Golden Retriever was indeed on the grounds. Sadly, the rest of the report was also true. The once magnificent animal was flea-infested, vastly underweight and limping along the walkway. At rest, his back left leg swung loose as if it were shorter than the rest.

As the duo made inquiries about the friendly canine, his story began to unfold. The retriever's irresponsible owner had just dumped him at the temple several weeks earlier, leaving the injured animal to fend for himself. The story was seemingly more tragic in that no one cared if the team took the dog away. Even a monk, often the last hope for dumped temple dogs, seemed surprised to notice the wounded animal. In the end, this was the best thing that could have happened.

As Ally grabbed up their golden-fleeced find, Karin commandeered the temple's cable-car. This spared their new charge the 309 stairs steps that is the temples more notorious claim to fame. Within minutes, the trio was off to the vetrinarians. Instantly the canine found his new name - sunshine.

X-rays reveled that Sunshine's left leg was indeed shorter than his other legs and contained a medal pin from a previous surgery. The pin had somehow migrated, causing a painful point to stick out beyond the bone. It had been this way for some time as calcium now enveloped the steel. All the vets could do was cut off the extended end. Still, what a miracle this was for Sunshine after what must have been many months of suffering.

When the Care for Dogs team transferred Sunshine from the veterinary hospital to their sanctuary his true personality began to shine through. There is nothing like the confident dominance projected by a mentally well-balanced golden retriever. Despite his long hard spell, Sunshine proved worthy of his breed.

Dominant, yet not overly aggressive, he quickly established himself as top-dog in his area of the facility. Even against the resident Rottweiler mix Noy, Sunshine drew a firm line. In no time he stole the hearts of the Care for Dogs crew. It was not surprising that in a matter of days new volunteers Teresa and Nok informed Karin of their decision to give Sunshine a forever-home.

Karin smiled as she went off to check her email, yet again.

Road to Chiang Rai

Road to Chiang Rai

by Adam Bryan-Brown

I like to get out of Bangkok when I can. I find the noise, pollution, traffic and scale of Bangkok a little wearisome. Recently I took a road trip to the Chiang Rai region in the very north of the country. It was was a lot of fun, very relaxing and we collected some great pictures.

Many people outside Thailand assume that if you have been to Bangkok you have been to Thailand. In fact, Krung Thep (roughly translating to City of Angels), to use it's Thai name, has been the capital of Thailand, or Siam, only since the very end of the 18th century, succeeding Ayuthaya and Sukothai.

Bangkok (translating as 'village of wild plums') was the original site for the capital city and was located west of the Chao Phraya river (in modern day Thonburi).

In 1782, King Rama I decided to move to a more defensible site and moved across the river to found his new capital, Krung Thep. For whatever reason, foreigners have never since caught up with the name change and the old name of Bangkok has stuck. In recent years, Krung Thep/Bangkok has expanded at such a fast rate that it now sprawls over a huge mass of land on both the sides of the Chao Phraya and has engulfed the once independent Thonburi.

Krung Thep is actually an abbreviated version of the ceremonial full name, which is shown below in a romanized form.

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit

In English this translates, roughly, to: The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.

Perhaps we should stick to Bangkok!

Early August we set off to Chiang Mai from Bangkok. The trip is for business, to attend a gallery opening in Chiang Rai. It's easier to fly but I drive whenever I can. We decided to drive straight to Chiang Mai, break for the night, then move on to Chiang Rai the next day. It takes about seven hours to get to Chiang Mai, depending on traffic, the lunatic Formula 1 aspirations of your driver, and taking the right roads. Addisorn certainly has Formula 1 aspirations, and the only traffic problem we had was running into a funeral, but he can't read a map, so we arrived late.

It's a pleasant though unremarkable route, mostly by expressway. One joy is to see the rice fields. Field upon field stretching endlessly both vertically and horizontally. Rice farmers and their families working the fields. You feel as if you are going back in time to a more peaceful and simple existence, out from the city into the farming heartland of Thailand.

Last year I took the same route with my children but we spent four days getting to Chiang Mai, stopping off at Ayuthaya, Lopburi, Sukothai, Lampang and Phitsanulok to see a variety of sights.

In Europe I would never describe myself as a church freak. I am happy to visit the odd cathedral here and there but that's about it. In Thailand I definitely fall into the category of temple addict. I love the Buddhist culture and the temples, whether extant or in ruins, induce all sorts of strange emotions in me.

Of all the places we visited Ayuthaya is the best known, being close to Bangkok, but Sukothai was for me the most interesting experience. Finding good hotels proved challenging. We stayed in some fairly weird places but I am now beginning to get to grips with the concept of Thai travel lodges. Luxurious they are not but they are clean, often set in very beautiful countryside and they do more for me than the functionalism of a convention type hotel.

This time we got close to Chiang Mai at around six and stopped off for dinner in a small town, beside the market. The markets are the soul of Thai rural society.You eat there, you shop there and you see Thailand there. Exotic smells, wonderfully fresh food, often grown by small families selling off their surplus.

In the outer edges of the bigger cities there are very few non-Thai and I always find myself being observed by young and old alike, as if I am an alien from another planet. I try to speak Thai to them , asking perhaps for some noodle soup or some geng daeng (red curry) and they respond with vacant stares which demonstrate that knowing Thai vocabulary is not even close to being able to speak the language!

As almost everywhere in Thailand the people are unfailingly polite and charming. Eventually we find food I can eat and then I observe the food sellers watching me to see if I can cope with the spice! There are chuckles of delight as I cough violently on som tam and expressions of satisfaction as I ask for more.

We get into Chiang Mai itself around eight. Part of our mission is to find some high quality boutique hotels to recommend to future clients.

It's a nice idea in principle but it can be hell finding these places. We are staying at a place called Baan Singh Kham and we are lost. We call the hotel and the manager tells us to hold on and he will come and find us. After a few minutes he arrives and we follow him to the hotel.

It's dark so it's difficult to assess the hotel properly but the rooms, while eccentric, are fantastic, and we are paying just 2,000 baht for the night. You can see more information about the hotel at http://www.hotelthailand.com/chiangmai/baansinghkham/index.html

The site is not great but don't let that put you off. The hotel is charming, small (I like small), very clean and very beautiful. Take a look at the bathrooms on the site! They are just a lot of fun.

I highly recommend this place. The staff are efficient, polite and they speak good English too. Ok, the place is a little eccentric. The fitness room is a bike on a balcony. New York this ain't! You know, if I wanted New York I would go to New York. This is Thailand and I am content.

We go into Chiang Mai for dinner and find a pretty good Thai restaurant. We then wander off into the nightlife. It's not the same as Bangkok. Yes, there are beer bars and gogo bars and a mass of karaoke bars but it is very laid back. In fact it is fair to say that Chiang Mai is generally a laid back city with its own, very unique charm. The three of us play a little pool, drink a little beer and eventually wander by accident into what is termed a gogo.

I am the only farang. No one speaks a word of English and who ever heard of a gogo bar with no poles? Well, there is a pole but it is at the entrance to the bar rather than in the bar itself. We are "entertained" by girls spitting darts to burst balloons, opening bottles of beer and doing various other weird and wonderful things with (how can I put this subtly) various and unlikely body parts.

Next morning I wake early, read in a chair on the balcony and gently watch the world pass me by. We all have breakfast and then set off for Chiang Rai. It's not far, a little over a 100km but it's through some very hilly terrain with slow, single lane tracks. Yet this is Thailand maybe at it's best -- green and lush, sun reflecting off the rice fields, the air fresh and clean.

Our destination is uncertain, meaning we have no idea where it is! It's a new hotel called Doi Hom Fha. All we really know is that it is accessible by track rather than by road and that we have to take a ferry to reach the hotel itself.

Via many conversations on the phone we do eventually find the track, though "track" is a poor description. It's more a mud trail to nowhere.

Eventually we pass through a small village of open huts and see the horizon of what appears to be a huge lake. We see boys playing in the water, fishing with small sticks. There are men in small, lazy boats fishing in the open water, also amidst the foliage of the shores. The sun lights up a panorama and we are in another world. It's magnificent, isolated, huge and inspiring.

The hotel itself is hard to describe. It's better experienced via pictures. The lobby is like a giant cave. I have never seen anything so big in my life. I sense there should be bats lining the walls and ceiling. The manager is hospitality herself except I mean himself as "she" later turned out to be a "he', wonderfully eccentric, exaggeratedly feminine but fun to know. I could have done without the details of the upcoming "final" operation however.

The rooms are small villas and it's clear we are occupying the only functional ones, functional being a relative term. The hotel is not properly open for business as yet. The grand opening is in January 2007. This is clearly meant to a 5-star resort and it is, but in a Thai way. So the advertised DVD player is found in one room but not in mine. The aircon works but vaguely so. The tap comes off my shower and the wiring looks more dangerous than an unexploded cluster bomb! And outside showers and baths are a wonderful concept except when it is raining!

Yet it really doesn't matter. Everyone is friendly and you sense they probably will get everything fixed by January and the place is just so wonderful that I can manage almost any problem. Aso, we are paying 2,500 baht versus a rack rate of 8,000.

The site address is http://www.doihomfharesort.com/index.html. It is worth taking a look.

We are driven around the resort. It's owned by a Thai who made his fortune in jewelry. You sense this is his fantasy project. Honestly I don't see how the economics can work but feel the love that has gone into the project. The basis of everything is wine. The vineyards were laid down about 10 years ago with shiraz grapes. There is an enormous, I would almost say fantastic, winery with great vats full of wine.

Next we move onto the jewelry factory where gemstones are being polished by about thirty workers. Beside is the tea house where we sample about 10 different types of tea. All around is the most wonderful scenery you will ever see. What a place this is. If I was staying in a tent I would be happy here and I never do tents! If you want to escape into a civilized wilderness, far from anyone, privacy guaranteed, set in the most beautiful surrounds, then this is the place for you. All of us fall in love with the place. All of us will return.

Later we go into Chiang Rai itself for the gallery opening. On our return we discover that the ferryman has fallen asleep on the wrong side of the lake! Our driver is getting increasingly frantic trying to raise him on the radio. I am beginning to think about the merits of 4 of us sleeping in one car. He does eventually wake up and we cross in the darkness, the lake holding its secrets from us like an eclipse of the moon.

My previous time in Chiang Rai I had stayed right beside the Mekong River. We took a boat into the Golden Triangle passing huge Buddhas as we criss-crossed Thailand, Laos and Burma. We also visited the Queen Mother's Summer Palace where there is a feast of flowers that overwhelms the senses.

I also had the misfortune to be conned by my children into an elephant ride across the river. This was not cool. Uncomfortable, often scary, am I the only person who suffers from elephant motion sickness? The Mekong and the areas around the Mekong are the equal of Doi Hom Fha, but much more geared to the tourist. I can only say that I adore the whole of the Chiang Rai region. It's my favorite part of Thailand. I would happily get lost there for weeks on end.

The next day, Sunday, we drove home to Bangkok. It's a 10-12 hour drive. Addisorn managed to lose us a few times, to the point that we started to believe we might end up in Hat Yai if we didn't stay awake to guide him! Oh for the joys of satellite navigation. In Europe I can almost close my eyes on a 500km trip from Geneva to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. In Thailand I can get lost going round a corner.

Three days is not nearly enough time to do this trip. We saw almost nothing, yet we also saw everything. I would recommend taking 5-6 days, driving slowly, stopping often, keeping away from the main metropolises, with the exceptions of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. It's a wonderful experience and a fun and novel way to experience more of what Thailand is about.

Chiangmai General Information

Chiangmai General Information

Experiencing the merging of the past into the present in Chiang Mai where locals are proud of the city's 700-year history. Its rich traditional heritage and unique culture is a perfect foundation for the development of the city. Chiang Mai is one of the few places in Thailand where it is possible to find in the heart of the city centuries-old chedis and temples next to modern convenience stores and boutique hotels. The original city layout still exists as a neat square surrounded by a moat with vestiges of the fortified wall and its four main gates offering prime access to the old town.

For years, tourists have mistaken Chiang Mai as the northern junction and the base from which they can explore other provinces. The phrase "a day in Chiang Mai is enough to see things around" was common. Today, tourists are surprised by the fact that there is always something new to discover Chiang Mai. Intriguing diversity among ethnic tribes coupled with breathtaking scenery makes Chiang Mai one of Asia's most attractive tourist destinations. Two weeks in Chiang Mai may not be long enough for serious travelers.

The old city of Chiang Mai with its fascinating indigenous cultural identity such as diverse dialects, cuisine, architecture, traditional values, festivals, handicrafts and classical dances is a prime location in its own right. In addition, the presence of hill tribes and their wealth of unique cultures enhance Chiang Mai's distinctive diversity.

Chiang Mai is also blessed with pristine natural resources of mountains (dois), waterfalls, and other nature-based tourist attractions. At the same time, Chiang Mai residents are warm, gracious and congenial providing authentic hospitality making visits memorable and meaningful. Moreover, visitors from all walks of life can collect handicrafts of silk, silver and wood produced locally as timeless souvenirs. Chiang Mai is a place where both backpackers and luxury tourists can enjoy themselves to the fullest.

The Past

Chiang Mai literally means new city and has retained the name despite having celebrated its 700th anniversary in 1996. King Meng Rai founded the city as the capital of the Lanna (A Million Rice Fields) Kingdom on Thursday, 12th April 1296 during the same period of time as the establishment of the Sukhothai Kingdom. King Meng Rai the Great conferred with his friends, King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai and King Ngam Muang of Phayao before choosing the site where the capital of the Lanna Kingdom was to be founded.

From then, Chiang Mai not only became the capital and cultural core of the Lanna Kingdom, it was also the centre of Buddhism in northern Thailand. King Meng Rai himself was very religious and founded many of the city's temples, which are still important today.

At the height of its power, the Lanna Kingdom extended its territory far into Burma and Laos, and southwards to Kamphaeng Phet a province above Sukhothai.

The Burmese conquered the Lanna Kingdom in 1556 ending the dynasty founded by King Meng Rai that lasted over 250 years. As Burma had occupied Chiang Mai for nearly 200 years, Burmese architectural influences are visible in many temples. At the end of the 18th century, King Taksin the Great regrouped the Thais in the south and finally drove the Burmese out with the help of King Kawila of Lampang thereby regaining Thai independence from Burma. Chiang Mai was then governed by a succession of princes who ruled the north as a Siamese protectorate under the Chakri dynasty. In the late 19th century, King Rama V appointed a high commissioner in Chiang Mai and it was only in 1939 that Chiang Mai finally came under the direct control of the central government in Bangkok the same time the country was renamed Thailand.

In the past, Chiang Mai was only accessible by river and elephants. More convenient access was achieved only when the railway line was completed in the late 1920's. Moreover, the first motor vehicle driven directly from Bangkok arrived in Chiang Mai in 1932. Such isolation was more favorable to Chiang Mai as it helped to nurture and preserve the unique Lanna culture.

When we look at Chiang Mai today, it is the economic, cultural and communications hub of northern Thailand complete with excellent infrastructure, good roads, by passes and road tunnels, and reliable communications infrastructure.

The Setting

Chiang Mai, with an altitude of approximately 310 meters above sea level, is situated approximately 700 kilometers from Bangkok on the Mae Ping River basin. Surrounded by high mountain ranges, the city covers an area of approximately 20,107 square kilometers and is the country's second largest province. Chiang Mai borders Myanmar on the north, Lamphun and Tak Provinces on the south, Chiang Rai, Lampang and Lamphun Provinces on the east and Mae Hong Son Province on the west. The terrain is mainly comprised of jungles and mountains, which are home to the hill tribes. In addition, wildlife and exotic flora may be found in the national parks.

Most of Chiang Mai's mountains are oriented from north to south. Together they create a multitude of streams and tributaries including Mae Chaem, Mae Ngat and Mae Klang. One of Chiang Mai's distinctive features is Doi Inthanon, Thailands highest peak, which is 2,575 meters above sea level. In addition, the province boasts flat, fertile valleys, which spread along the banks of the largest and most important river in Chiang Mai Mae Nam Ping (Ping River) which originates from the Chiang Dao mountain range.